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Pomander

Unmarked
about 1580
Object PlaceEngland
Medium/TechniqueSilver gilt
DimensionsH. 6.4 cm (2 1/2 in); W. 3.4 cm (1 5/16 in.); Weight 50.2 gm (1 oz 11 dwt)
Credit LineBequest of Frank Brewer Bemis
Accession number35.1547
On View
Not on view
ClassificationsSilver
Collections
Description
Men and women of late-medieval and Renaissance Europe wore pomanders of aromatic substances to eliminate bad odors and prevent infections. The earliest known examples held mixtures of spices, herbs, and blossoms molded into a ball and inserted into simple cases of open metalwork. By the sixteenth century, elaborately decorated containers with separate compartments for individual scents were worn hanging from a girdle or suspended from a long chain around the neck.

This hexagonal pomander has eight hinged compartments that slide open. Inside, each wedge-shaped section is engraved with the name of the substance it was meant to house: ROSE (rose), CEDRO (cedar), GESMINI (jasmine), AMBRA (ambergris), MOSCHETE (musk), VIOLE (violet), NARANSI (orange), and GAROFOLI (clove). The central container is capped by a grotesque figure atop a second hexagonal sphere, which may be removed to fill the pomander. Under the spool-shaped base is an engraved cartouche that once surrounded a heraldic coat of arms.1 Pomanders like this one were worn until the last quarter of the seventeenth century, when they were replaced by small bottles of liquid scents or perforated vessels containing aromatic vinegar.

Yvonne J. Markowitz, “Pomander” in Artful Adornments: Jewelry from the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston by Yvonne J. Markowitz (Boston: MFA Publications, 2011), 130-131.

InscriptionsEach section is engraved on the outer face with wriggle-work, and on the interior has an engraved sliding cover. The inscriptions, the names of perfumes, read: ROSE; CEDRO; GESMINI; AMBRA; MOSCHETE; VIOLE; NARANSI; GAROFOLI [rose, cedar, jasmine, ambergris, musk, violet, orange, clove]ProvenanceBy 1919, Walter H. Willson Ltd., London; May 7, 1929, sold by Walter H. Willson, Ltd. to Frank Brewer Bemis (b. 1861 - d. 1935), Boston; 1935, bequest of Frank Brewer Bemis to the MFA. (Accession Date: November 7, 1935)
Mazer
Unmarked
about 1500–25, with later alterations
Unmarked
style of late 15th century
Back of badge and wood base
Unmarked
about 1600–25
Flagon
Unmarked
about 1600
Sandglass
Unmarked
about 1550
Acorn knop spoon
Unmarked
possibly late 14th–early 15th
Ostrich egg ewer
Unmarked
about 1675
Cream Jug
Unmarked
possibly about 1820
Bottle
Unmarked
17th century (?)
Corkscrew
Unmarked
18th century
Book cover
Unmarked
about 1640–55